Delicious things.

Since I can't stream NPR in BsAs, my main way of staying connected to what's going on in the world is by reading the headlines on The New York Times: Global Edition web page. I set it as my homepage so even if I don't feel like making an effort to be a good, worldly citizen, at least some of the planet's goings on confront me every morning. Today, one of the featured columns was about recipes for healthy cooking. The Times has a column called Recipes for Health written by a Ms. Martha Rose Shulman, and this week, readers can post questions for her and she'll respond on the website. So I was scrolling through some of the questions, but when I came to this one, I just stopped dead in my tracks:

If flavor and aroma were not a factor what should one eat for optimum health?

-- Paul Silver

Let's all just have a moment of silence for Paul Silver and pray that he lost his olfactory capacities in a horrific freak accident. Otherwise, I just can't understand why anyone would even attempt eating anything at all sans taste or smell. Eat ice, Paul Silver. Or protein powder mixed with water. Hell, just swallow a handful of multivitamins 3 times a day.

I spent my morning in the kitchen of a closed-door home-style restaurant taking a cooking class from an award winning New York chef/sommelier. Paul Silver probably spent his google-ing how many calories there are in seltzer.

Forgetting Paul Silver for a while, I'll tell you about my cooking class. It was a vegetarian class, though really it was just 4 dishes without meat. To me, vegetarian cooking is about finding innovative, flavorful ways to incorporate different proteins into a few dishes that add up to a complete meal. But we didn't really do much in the way of innovation. We just didn't use any meat. So, the 4 dishes were as follows: Fennel with figs scented with bay leaf and cinnamon, Whole wheat langanelli with sauteed cauliflower, Brussel sprout soup, and Swiss chard pastilla. Don't get me wrong. The food was good and it was fun to be in the kitchen in a small group (just 3 students and Dan, the chef), but I did leave thinking critically of what we made and how we made it.

Fennel with Figs. The first thing that bothered me about this recipe was that it required three separate ways of cooking the fennel. First, it was boiled. Then, it was browned. And then it was baked. Just seemed a little overkill to me, especially for a dish that didn't really reflect the amount of work and machinery that went into it. And I think the fennel itself couldn't even figure out what it was supposed to taste or look like. It had the texture of a boiled vegetable, plus a barely there crust from the brief browning. And I think the time in the oven just added to the confusion. The fig part, though was great and not as sweet as I thought it would be. I've never cooked with fresh figs before and I think I'll definitely try and use them again in some other kind of dish. So, this dish was alright. But I think I'll stick with Mom's stellar roasted fennel.

Whole Wheat Langanelli with Sauteed Cauliflower. Turns out langanelli is just a fancy word for trapezoid-shaped pasta. Apparently it's related to the word "mal fatti" or "misformed". I didn't particularly enjoy this shape, and I think I'll leave my whole grains out of the pasta bowl. I just prefer regular old, white flour pasta, and as long as you don't eat it every night that's just fine. One thing I definitely have learned here (from Celeste, from this class, and from the crazy Italian man who has a pasta making show on the Argentine version of Food Network) is that it's insanely easy to make your own fresh pastas, and I think that's something I'd like to continue doing back home. So the pasta was fine, but the cauliflower was AWESOME. Definitely one of the highlights of the meal. Just some onions sauteed in olive oil, plus rosemary and red pepper flakes. Sautee the cauliflower til it's nice and brown and then turn down the heat and cover the pan until it's soft all the way through. The cauliflower didn't turn to mush, and it was nice and smoky from the browning and the rosemary. I will definitely cook that part of the dish again!

Brussel Sprout Soup. My favorite dish from today and the first soup I've had since leaving Mom's chili and pea soup far away on Piper Lane. The best part was that today was such a soup day too. It was probably not even 60 F when I left my apartment this morning, and there was a crisp breeze all day. It's finally getting to be "winter" down here. So this recipe was fabulous, and the brussel sprouts just started coming in last week so it was very seasonal. We started by learning to make vegetable stock which is incredible simple and wonderful and a skill I will bring back to the kitchen at home. Then we just sauteed onion added the brussel sprouts, carrot, veggie stock, a bit of "leftover" white wine (what? leftover wine? never heard of such a thing), and some salt+pepper and let it simmer until everything was cooked through. Then we pureed it all (which I'm usually not that into, but it totally worked since brussel sprouts can't really be bite sized without falling completely apart) and sprinkled a little parsley on top. YUM.

Swiss Chard Pastilla. I'll just lay it out there... sorry fancy chef Dan, but my spinach pie that I adapted from the recipe in Barefoot Contessa easily beats out your version. The swiss chard we used was also a little overgrown, in my opinion, so I tasted a bit of that chalky, bitter aftertaste you get from overgrown chard. This was just your basic phyllo dough crust + greens and pine nuts, you know, that kind of thing. The way to make it a real vegetarian dish (and a real TASTY dish, to me, at least) is to bind the filling with an egg and throw some feta or ricotta in there! Today's version just ended up being some sort of soggy greens with some interspersed pine nuts and raisins encased in some crispy phyllo. Oh well. I did learn a good trick though, for making sure the bottom of the phyllo doesn't get gummy... when you take the dish out of the oven, throw it on top of the burner for 2-3 minutes and it will crisp up the bottom. Also makes it easier to get out of the pan. So, thanks for the tip! It'll just make my recipe even better!

Despite my critiques, this morning was a blast. I did learn some new skills and tips and it's also a good feeling to realize that I know my way confidently around the kitchen and do a pretty great job. I'm looking forward to another class with Dan next Monday on Peruvian cooking, so I'm hoping to learn some things I've never tried before!

Thanks Mom and Pop for teaching me how to enjoy preparing and eating food. If only Paul Silver had been fortunate enough to have a family like mine...

P.S.

Forgot to mention I went to Uruguay on Friday. It was lovely, relaxing, and just a ferry ride away. Pictures here, along with some from Mar del Plata, the area around my university, and Mendoza.

These are a few of my favorite things...

Mom says the blog is boring since I haven’t posted in weeks, so it’s her fault I’m writing this instead of doing homework!

Since I’ve returned from my week away in the west of Argentina (pictures of the trip to San Juan and Mendoza are here) things in BA have been pretty rosy! The time away from the city was perfect: we strolled through the moonscape desert of Parque Nacional Ischigualasto, pushed our car across a dried out lake bed in Leoncito, gave a nod to those Andes that separate us from Chile (Andes and lake bed pictured above), and sipped Malbec at a bodega familiar in Mendoza. While I headed back to the city with still a bit of reservation, this week has been wonderful. I’ve stayed pretty close to home in Belgrano, acclimating myself to city life again. So here is a list of some wonderful places, restaurants, and people I have found in this city so far. And may I continue to make more and more lovely discoveries!

Favorite neighborhood:

Belgrano. Of course! Now that I’ve lived here for about 2 months (63 days to be exact) I am so comfortable in my barrio. Sure, I still love the old architecture and bohemian scene of San Telmo, but Belgrano has truly won my heart. One of the best things about Belgrano is that there’s really no tourist presence besides the scattered university students. Since it’s such a trek from el centro, Belgrano is not really mentioned in the guide books. It maintains a real relaxed, family vibe, since it’s a mostly middle-class neighborhood and there’s a ton of schools.

Favorite Ice Cream:

Persicco. While good, hard American ice cream still reigns supreme in my mind (just ask Clark—I’m still trying to get him to bring a cooler full of Ben & Jerry’s as his carry on when he comes to visit in July) the best Argentine helado I have tried in BA is definitely at Persicco. Persicco has 4 locations around the city, but I’m pretty sure the one in Belgrano is the best. On the corner of Juramento y Cuba, it is right in front of the Plaza Belgrano, which fills up on weekends with a funky crafts market. The café has a great terrace on the second floor that overlooks the plaza and the Redondo, the huge domed roof of the beautiful church next door.

It’s got wireless internet and offers a full café menu so it’s a nice place to study too. My favorite flavors so far are Chocolate Amargo (bitter chocolate) with Dulce de Leche Casero con Brownie. Considering the fact that I don’t even like actual dulce de leche, I think my devotion to Persicco’s ice cream version is remarkable. Persicco is a little expensive, but totally worth it. And before mom sent my trusty French press and a pound of ground coffee, it was the only place where I could find an America-sized mug of plain black coffee.

Favorite Pizza:

Burgio Pizzeria on Cabildo y Monroe. This is real, Argentine style pizza. Thick, fluffy crust loaded with an inch thick layer of gooey cheese (broiled and crunchy on top), and topped with things like onion, tomato and spices, or ham and cheese (of course). This is not a snack. This is lunch AND dinner. And it’s soooo good. I went to Burgio for the first time this weekend, drawn in by the crowd of middle-aged men eating their slices while standing up at the counter in the front. When I tried to stand and order my slice, I was ushered towards an area with tables and chairs where all the other women were seated. This place really is a time warp! Two slices and two beers later, I left with a buzz, a full belly, and the fortitude to walk both off. Coincidentally, I ended up walking to Persicco. I just seem to end up there... every day...

Favorite place to grocery shop:

La Calle Juramento. All my favorite shops are on this street, and it’s just 3 blocks from my apartment. There’s Verde Brote, the natural foods store that sells dried fruits, vegetables, beans, some spices, canned black beans (which are truly a novelty in this city) and tostito style corn chips (for the celiacs, remember?). A block up from there is the Feriado Modelo Belgrano, and indoor market style place with butchers, fresh fish, veggie stands, some prepared foods, and a kick-ass place that has all sorts of imported cheeses. One of the veggie guys even sells all different kinds and colors of Andean potatoes! Great place, but they close at 13hs and open back up at 18hs, which can be a heartbreaker if you forget. Just a few steps away is the COTO, which after a rocky start to our relationship, is now my grocery store of choice. The first time I went I was short on cash so I stocked up on a few more things and tried to use the credit card. Turns out you need your passport to use a credit card in the COTO, so they turned me down and I stormed out. But now that I know, I always bring cash and it always has good prices and mostly everything in stock.

Favorite yoga studio:

Fundación Indra Devi. I’m pretty sure this place, mostly my instructor, Norma, is saving me here in BA. After my first class with her, Norma gave me a huge, warm hug. It made me realize I had not been hugged since I left my parents at security in the Providence airport. Now I get Norma hugs 3 times a week! The classes are wonderful; I stretch and twist alongside women of all ages and abilities. The studio has such a relaxed, unpretentious vibe, unlike the “bougie”, new-age place I checked out in Palermo. And it’s been there since 1988 so it’s well-loved, lived in, and the instructors know what they’re doing.

Favorite subway stop:

Jose Hernandez on the D-line. This is where I get off when I’m headed home and tired, usually on Thursdays after a full day of class. Usually, I get off at the Juramento stop so I get a bit more of a walk in on my way home. But I like Jose, because around midday there’s always a reggae band just hanging out, playing all afternoon. There’s also this really random display case supposedly to show off BsAs culture, but it’s always ironically empty. Hm.

Favorite colectivo:

The 67. I pick it up right on Avenida Cabildo, the main street that runs 4 blocks from my apartment. For those of you coming to visit me, the 67 will most likely be gloriously transformed into Mary Kate’s low-budget BsAs bus tour!!! Well, if I have enough monedas to spare, of course. I take the 67 to my Castellano class up on Castex in Palermo, and some times to the center too. It runs down Sarmiento and Libertador, the streets that line the Palermo parks and botanical gardens, and goes right past the Malba (favorite museum) and the big metal flower structure that opens and closes every day. Then it heads down to el centro, parallel to 9 de Julio, right by the obelisk. What a ride.

:)

PACKAGE RECEIVED! Thank you family, everything is perfect and it was totally worth the airport/customs madness. I love you

Off to San Juan! Be back in a week...

Attitude.

Cost of necessary UPS customs documents: $89 pesos

Trips to and from the airport: $192 pesos

Tears shed: 1 1/2 (did my best to contain myself)

Times the words "ridiculous" and "stupid" have crossed my mind (in reference to Argentine customs and myself): 1,857,349

Persicco Ice cream to comfort myself: $14 pesos

Getting a care package from my family: priceless.

So I didn't get my package on Saturday. Or today. But it's alright. I am adopting a very peaceful attitude towards this whole process, and it's going to work out. Today I didn't get it because I did not have my original passport; I only had the photocopy. So that was truly me just not thinking about how I need my original to do everything else in this country, so I would probably need it to get something from customs. My B. Try again tomorrow.

Maybe it's all the yoga I've been doing that's letting me relax about this.

Or maybe it's the ice cream.

I GOT MY CAMERA BACK!

Camera is safe and sound, no longer enjoying its time alone at the beach in Mar del Plata. I think this signifies a change in luck for me... 

Tomorrow I will return to the airport via the correct way (not the 2 hour colectivo on dirt roads) and customs will be open (not closed and abandoned) so I will be able to bring my package home (and not come home defeated and without hot sauce).

Tuesday I will finally complete all my Visa requirements and not have to deal with Argentine government offices for a long time. Then, I will get on a bus with my two best girl friends and head to San Juan and Parque Nacional Ischigualastu for about a week. We have no idea what to expect, but we will be together and it will be an adventure!

And I will have my camera to capture it all!

um, OM!

When I was a little younger, tagging along to my mom’s yoga classes, or doing yoga in the living room with Dixie Carter and that other blonde woman in the white unitard, or with Rodney Yee who had a ponytail and did yoga in a speedo on a deserted beach, I was always nervous when it came time to chant Om three times at the beginning and end of class. I never did it, or sometimes I would only do it really quietly—barely a whisper. And if there was one really tone-deaf person in the class whose Om wasn’t quite hitting the right note, I would snigger to myself.  I don’t remember the first time I “Om-ed” without reservation, but since then I’ve never looked back. I LOVE to Om. My Om is loud and deep and round. I like to feel it vibrate in my chest and throat, and watch it spill out of my mouth like warm, white smoke from a winter chimney.

I hope that everyone loves the sound of their own Om.

Gradually, as I have overcome that selfish/self-conscious feeling that everyone in my yoga classes is looking at me, yoga has become one of the few activities I do where I feel I can completely abandon all of my anxieties or self-imposed restrictions. I breath loud when it feels good, I fart (you know you’ve done it), I let my belly hang out, I close my eyes, relax my face and don’t care what I look like, I Om as loud and as long as I want. And no one cares, because we’re all just trying to feel good in our own ways.

My yoga class on Tuesday was incredible. I found a different studio that’s just two blocks from my apartment in Belgrano! It’s called la Fundación Indra Devi, founded by the “first lady of yoga”. Indra Devi was a student alongside B.K.S. Iyengar and some other big names. And fortunately for me, she opened a lovely studio in Belgrano. The best part of the class was the instructor, Norma. Norma is probably in her 60s and is the warmest, most wonderful person I have come across in this city. She does beautiful yoga effortlessly, like a dancer. At the end of class I thanked her and she gave me a huge, warm, bear hug that made me realize it’s the first time I have been hugged since I left my parents at the airport. Ya. Not OK. My next class with her Saturday… I’m really looking forward to class, and hopefully another Norma hug!

For me, comfort has been hard to come by here in BA. Whether it’s culture shock, city shock, homesickness, it’s been difficult for me to feel completely at ease. At first, I sought comfort in peanut butter. Now I feel it at yoga with Norma. Definitely a healthier, more productive alternative. If only the Haymarket were just a few blocks away. Still searching for that cozy café with wi-fi…